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Question: Can your heat exchanger (for a 14hp Generac generator that I have) be set to raise the temp more than 30 degrees before it releases heat
into the dust downer? I know it's tube based but I would love to at least get a 50 degree rise.
Since you installed a thermostat inside the tube in shell heater can it be set to allow the temp to rise higher - I'm assuming that a 30 degree temp rise is a "production" average and if the psi going through it is say - only 300 - then you may get a better rise? I'm looking at ordering this pretty soon as I need to beef up my starting heat on my Hybrid TM.
I have two Air Hog 7300-S units tied into a water hog - powered by a Generac 8000xg. Also both Air Hogs have exhaust ports that I'm redirecting out the back of the van with 2" hose - maybe their exhaust can be added to the hx? Also can you setup an auto-fill box - like a Mytee Waterbox but at 500 psi? I'm assuming the generator hx (below) is the last step in the chain - the pump is before the hx?
Answer: Tube in shell heater usually only get a 30 degree rise. The alternative is to coiled heater. These coil heaters use 150 ft of 3/8" stainless tubing in a box and get much hotter but you have to realize that it is not OK to set the cleaning wand down. A tube in shell heater we install a thermostat inside the heater.
There is no way to install a thermometer inside the coil heater so instead we have to install it on the solution line after it leaves the heater. The water must stay in motion or you could spike water temperature to way over 300 degrees and explode your hose. I have some ideas how to control these but none of them have been tested yet.
Generator heat exchangers are the last step in the heating process. The 500 psi pump cost almost the same as the 1200 psi pump when you stick it in a box.
visit
$441 plus
$194.93 = $635.93
Now compare to the cost of a Water Otter
http://www.steam-brite.com/pumptec-a...mp-p-8956.html $860
or
$740
With the 1200 to 1500 psi you can clean tile and grout.
When we take a 500 psi pump set and install it in a box the 500 is not going to save you any money after we add the parts and labor for the build.
The Mytee auto fill box is suction feed with the Aquatec 220 psi pump.
Pumps last longer if you convert to pressure feed and clean with 75psi more use pressure and 10 degree hotter.
You might want to look at
This has the 220 psi pressure feed set up + the added heater.
The other option it to see if we can up grade the Mytee auto fill box by changing the pump out. I have not been selling this mytee part so I do not know if their is room under the hood to do this or not. I would think that this is not possible.
It is also possible to reclaim some of the heat from the coiled heat exchanger by sending back into the inbound hot/cold water from the garden hose. The hose has to be rubber and you will have to have a 140 degree safety sensor installed on the inbound water hose.
The spray is shot back into the solution hose with a flow control disk
Question: What about this as an alternative when using a coiled hx?
Answer:
We always worry about customer that forgetting to bleed off the extra steam when they set the wand down. This is very dangerous and then we have to worry about what if someone gets hurt. We live in a sue happy world and just because we try to help people out they try to sue us for their mistakes.
We also sell bypass wands at
The best thing is to keep the water in motion on a coiled system so the solenoid system reads the correct temperature.
You can keep the water in motion by spraying water back into a fresh tank, water float box, inbound water hose, waste tank,... This would be done with an 01 jet or or flow control disk. Once the solenoid states the water is getting to hot then this water is sprayed back to the waste tank. When you have this type of system you always have to monitor the inbound water temperature with a 140 degree pump sensor.
Solenoid at
140 degree sensor at
Question: Since you installed a thermostat inside the tube in shell heater can it be set to allow the temp to rise higher - I'm assuming that a 30 degree temp rise is a "production" average and if the psi going through it is say - only 300 - then you may get a better rise? I'm looking at ordering this pretty soon as I need to beef up my starting heat on my Hybrid TM.
I have two Air Hog 7300-S units tied into a water hog - powered by a Generac 8000xg. Also both Air Hogs have exhaust ports that I'm redirecting out the back of the van with 2" hose - maybe their exhaust can be added to the hx?
Answer: Making an exhaust heat exchanger for the dual mytee Air Hog 7300-S is possible. Please note that it you want this made out of stainless steel tubing for high pressure side (pressure up to 1500 psi) or copper for low pressure side (garden hose pressure), the cost would run $1250 to make one of these and the temperature rise would never be more than 30 degrees. You would need to tell us how many 2" ports you need on the inbound side. I assume dual 2" ports and one 2" port on the outbound side. I wanted to let you know that if you are using 2" vacuum hose, this does not slow the air down have a single 2" port on the exhaust. I would recommend the low pressure copper coiled heater because vacuum exhaust is usually only 140 to 180 degrees and it is much easier to raise 65 degree cold water to 95 degrees than hotter water to steam. I have one already built but just have not loaded it online yet.
into the dust downer? I know it's tube based but I would love to at least get a 50 degree rise.
Since you installed a thermostat inside the tube in shell heater can it be set to allow the temp to rise higher - I'm assuming that a 30 degree temp rise is a "production" average and if the psi going through it is say - only 300 - then you may get a better rise? I'm looking at ordering this pretty soon as I need to beef up my starting heat on my Hybrid TM.
I have two Air Hog 7300-S units tied into a water hog - powered by a Generac 8000xg. Also both Air Hogs have exhaust ports that I'm redirecting out the back of the van with 2" hose - maybe their exhaust can be added to the hx? Also can you setup an auto-fill box - like a Mytee Waterbox but at 500 psi? I'm assuming the generator hx (below) is the last step in the chain - the pump is before the hx?
Answer: Tube in shell heater usually only get a 30 degree rise. The alternative is to coiled heater. These coil heaters use 150 ft of 3/8" stainless tubing in a box and get much hotter but you have to realize that it is not OK to set the cleaning wand down. A tube in shell heater we install a thermostat inside the heater.
There is no way to install a thermometer inside the coil heater so instead we have to install it on the solution line after it leaves the heater. The water must stay in motion or you could spike water temperature to way over 300 degrees and explode your hose. I have some ideas how to control these but none of them have been tested yet.
Generator heat exchangers are the last step in the heating process. The 500 psi pump cost almost the same as the 1200 psi pump when you stick it in a box.
visit
$441 plus
$194.93 = $635.93
Now compare to the cost of a Water Otter
http://www.steam-brite.com/pumptec-a...mp-p-8956.html $860
or
$740
With the 1200 to 1500 psi you can clean tile and grout.
When we take a 500 psi pump set and install it in a box the 500 is not going to save you any money after we add the parts and labor for the build.
The Mytee auto fill box is suction feed with the Aquatec 220 psi pump.
Pumps last longer if you convert to pressure feed and clean with 75psi more use pressure and 10 degree hotter.
You might want to look at
This has the 220 psi pressure feed set up + the added heater.
The other option it to see if we can up grade the Mytee auto fill box by changing the pump out. I have not been selling this mytee part so I do not know if their is room under the hood to do this or not. I would think that this is not possible.
It is also possible to reclaim some of the heat from the coiled heat exchanger by sending back into the inbound hot/cold water from the garden hose. The hose has to be rubber and you will have to have a 140 degree safety sensor installed on the inbound water hose.
The spray is shot back into the solution hose with a flow control disk
Question: What about this as an alternative when using a coiled hx?
Answer:
We always worry about customer that forgetting to bleed off the extra steam when they set the wand down. This is very dangerous and then we have to worry about what if someone gets hurt. We live in a sue happy world and just because we try to help people out they try to sue us for their mistakes.
We also sell bypass wands at
The best thing is to keep the water in motion on a coiled system so the solenoid system reads the correct temperature.
You can keep the water in motion by spraying water back into a fresh tank, water float box, inbound water hose, waste tank,... This would be done with an 01 jet or or flow control disk. Once the solenoid states the water is getting to hot then this water is sprayed back to the waste tank. When you have this type of system you always have to monitor the inbound water temperature with a 140 degree pump sensor.
Solenoid at
140 degree sensor at
Question: Since you installed a thermostat inside the tube in shell heater can it be set to allow the temp to rise higher - I'm assuming that a 30 degree temp rise is a "production" average and if the psi going through it is say - only 300 - then you may get a better rise? I'm looking at ordering this pretty soon as I need to beef up my starting heat on my Hybrid TM.
I have two Air Hog 7300-S units tied into a water hog - powered by a Generac 8000xg. Also both Air Hogs have exhaust ports that I'm redirecting out the back of the van with 2" hose - maybe their exhaust can be added to the hx?
Answer: Making an exhaust heat exchanger for the dual mytee Air Hog 7300-S is possible. Please note that it you want this made out of stainless steel tubing for high pressure side (pressure up to 1500 psi) or copper for low pressure side (garden hose pressure), the cost would run $1250 to make one of these and the temperature rise would never be more than 30 degrees. You would need to tell us how many 2" ports you need on the inbound side. I assume dual 2" ports and one 2" port on the outbound side. I wanted to let you know that if you are using 2" vacuum hose, this does not slow the air down have a single 2" port on the exhaust. I would recommend the low pressure copper coiled heater because vacuum exhaust is usually only 140 to 180 degrees and it is much easier to raise 65 degree cold water to 95 degrees than hotter water to steam. I have one already built but just have not loaded it online yet.